An Ethnic Food Tour of Paterson, NJ

, So no pork.) Unlike your local Pathmark, the butchers here proudly display every cut, including tongue, liver, kidney, tripe, tails and feet. The fish counter along the left wall is just as impressive, with at least a dozen varieties of fresh whole fish on ice. I saw red snapper, porgies, sardines, striped bass, pargo, branzino, perch and rainbow trout, among others. Mayor Stampone shared the insider's tip, "Pick a fish, or meat, and they'll grill it for you right here." Fast food as it should be.

Along one wall, to the right of the entrance, an impressive brick-framed grill smokes with hardwood charcoal. Next to the grill spin thwo tall spits of chicken and beef  shawerma , a big draw. (One customer told me he comes five days a week just for the sliced meat in a pita.) At the fish counter, Dominick chose a whole Branzino. Deborah picked out some shrimp. The guy at the fish counter gives you your selection in a bucket, and you walk it over to the grill man. Meanwhile, I ventured over to the meat counter for a lamb chop and some homemade lamb sausage. At the grill, I asked for my lamb chop spicy. The grill man worked his magic with a spice rub and direct flame.

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