How to buy, prepare shellfish

Ten years ago, it was tough to buy fresh shellfish in landlocked cities like ours. Not today. Fresh fish is flown in daily and sold at most grocers. The selection is especially abundant during Lent, the 40-day season of repentance that begins on Ash Wednesday and ends with Easter. Catholics and other Christian faiths traditionally abstain from eating meat on Fridays during Lent, turning to seafood instead.

So what constitutes fresh? Shellfish should smell mild, with a whiff of the sea. When buying, don’t be afraid to ask questions: When was the shellfish delivered? From where? Is it fresh or farmed? Has it been previously frozen?

If the ice at the counter is melting, walk out of the store. For every degree higher than 32 degrees, there is a loss in quality.

Once purchased, shellfish must be refrigerated in containers covered with clean, damp cloths, not airtight lids. Cook within two days.

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