Review: Bambara's winter menu

"A little bit of both."

In my family, that's the correct answer when offered a choice of things to eat. Cornbread or sage dressing? A little bit of both. Coffee or chocolate ice cream? A little bit of both. Red or green sauce? A little bit of both.

In Santa Fe, they call that last inclusive decision "Christmas" and it's a standard way to order enchiladas. I love that because of the bounty implied by the word, and I'm happy to notice that more and more chefs are offering "Christmas" plates. A little bit of both, though not necessarily red and green.

We ate at Bambara last night, to check out the winter menu. Bambara remains, in the talented hands of Chef Nathan Powers, one of the best restaurants in Utah. His menus seem effortlessly balanced at a precise point between comfort and elegance, so you enjoy the soothing sustenance of rich, mouth-filling flavors as well as the intellectual appeal of aesthetically edgy culinary talent.

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