Backyard Brunch in Berkeley

The cafe soon moved to Ellis Street in Berkeley, at the home of Haia Sophia-Siegel. She’s the flower arranger for Pizzaiolo* and other local spots, and the shed was built as a workshop for her craft. Luckily Sophia-Siegel recognized its potential as a lo-fi outdoor kitchen and offered to loan it out on Saturday mornings.

There’s just enough space in the shed for Thoreson and his friend Ciara Sanker to maneuver about, making everything to order. They run an extension cord to the house for the waffle iron and coffee grinder. They cook on the grill, using cast-iron pans. Drinks are made with a nitrous-powered handheld espresso machine and a row of single-serve drip coffee cones. The whole setup is damn cute.

On my visit, I ordered fennel sausage with

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